Train to Berlin

Another train ride lay before us, this time from Prague to Berlin.  Making our way back to the Prague Central Station didn’t help any to improve on our first impressions.  While they are doing a lot of work there – the place is just awful.  Full of dodgy characters preying on unsuspecting tourists, no service points or central information counters, loud construction noises muffling any public announcements, I could go on!  The traveller is simply left to their own devices to try and work out where to go.

We finally stumbled across a digital board showing arrivals and departures.  It was a case of find your train number and wait until the platform number was displayed.  With only 15 minutes left before scheduled departure and still no platform, we were beginning to worry.  Word of advice when travelling with kids on trains – be prepared to get going at any moment.  With the short one firmly strapped in her pram and luggage within arm’s reach we were able to launch ourselves off as soon as the platform number went up.

Finally settled into our carriage, we were disappointed to find our more modern train was not as comfortable as our last train to Prague.  There is little room for luggage except for overhead rails, which managed all of our suitcases, back packs and pram.  Whilst this train had a dining car, it was not tempting enough to leave all of our luggage to partake in any of its delicacies!

Our arrival in Berlin was worlds apart.  Berlin’s new Central Train Station has to be seen to be believed.  A thriving metropolis in its own right – it is housed in an amazing glass structure with several floors of dining, shopping and extremely helpful information stands!  Whilst Prague has become an incredibly popular tourist destination, the Czech Republic still has a long way to go.

Put the horse before the cart

We were determined to not let what had happened spoil our closing hours in Prague. With the situation in hand as much as possible, we set off to deliver on a promise.

Each day, whenever we came anywhere near the general vicinity of the Old Town Square, the short one would proclaim, ‘horseys’.  In the Square surrounds were horses and carts taking tourists for a ride, in more ways than one.  The short one’s fixation led us to promise that we would take her one day.  Seeing it was our last day, we thought we better head straight for the ‘horseys’.

The sheer delight on her face was worth every Czech Crown – and seeing they aren’t worth much, they quickly add up!

To stay or not to stay

Our last day in Prague was overshadowed somewhat by an urgent message left with the concierge of our hotel.  We were delivered the bad news that the agency with whom we had booked and pre-paid our accommodation with in Prague, Berlin and Amsterdam had gone into liquidation overnight. Yet another victim of the financial crisis in Ireland, apparently.  Daily newspapers headline the woes in the Emerald Isle.

Many frantic phone calls ensued, between Travel Agents in Prague and Australia, between our Travel Insurance company and the hotels with whom we had reservations.  As to be suspected, as soon as the hotels heard about the situation, they cancelled all bookings and as quickly rebooked their rooms, with guaranteed paying guests!

Our travel agent was able to secure our accommodation in Berlin again, but we had to be relocated in Amsterdam.  Considering the time differences, we were impressed with the expediency by which our agent moved and ensued we had a bed for the night.

At one stage there it looked like the fine print of the insurance policy would permit them a loop hole in such a situation, but following extensive consultation, they have come to the party.

Moral of the story...what could have been a very difficult and stressful situation was made so much more manageable with the support of our travel agent and insurance company. If you can’t afford travel insurance, you can’t afford to travel!

Autumn leaves

Europe in Autumn is a truly beautiful place.  Deciduous trees abound, dropping little golden moments all around.

Leaves line the streets and walkways making a beautiful patchwork carpet everywhere we go.  The short one delights in running through them and kicking them up in the air. 

There was a precious moment that I came across a few days ago about which I never wrote.  A moment that I have often relived as the innocence moved me.

After returning from a moment’s absence, I fell upon Daddy and the short one running through a vast expanse of fallen leaves.  They were both delighting in kicking up streams of orange, yellow and gold into the breeze; ‘dancing golden faeries’ as they are quick to tell me.

A truly memorable scene  - but what was truly memorable was this whole scene took place in the ‘killing zone’ at Dachau; a grassed area that had previously seen so much tragedy was now a scene of such delightful innocence.

On this Day of Remembrance ...Lest we forget

Dancing golden faeries

Good King Wenceslas

Whilst a popular Christmas Carol, Wenceslas was never actually a king, but in fact a Czech Prince.  Today we decided to head in a different direction and make our way to Wenceslas Square.  This 750m long and 60m wide boulevard is dominated at one end by the majestic National Museum.

National Museum

The Bohemian Duke, Wenceslas was murdered by his brother in 935 AD and later canonised as the patron Czech saint.  The square also boasts the prince astride a horse in a 1912 sculpture.

Wenceslas Square

Moving from this precinct we further explored the Jewish Quarter.  The Old Jewish Cemetery is a moving tribute to Prague’s once significant Jewish community.  This small area was one of the few spaces afforded to Prague’s Jews for burial.  When the small plot became full, graves were built up in layers with estimates of around 200 000 Jews buried here.  The oldest headstone dates back to 1439.  The plot was finally closed to burials in 1787.

Old Jewish Cemetery

There was nothing else for it really.  After another busy day walking all over Prague, we decided that we needed to treat ourselves.  Conveniently positioned just one block from our hotel is the most magnificent French patisserie, chocolaterie and cafe.  One that we have admired from afar, until today! Daddy spoiled himself with a hot chocolate and a piece of cheesecake, while I enjoyed a ‘special cappuccino’ with just a dash of chocolate!  Oh, pure bliss!

The short one, well, she just had to settle for a ‘mleko’! Life is tough when you are height challenged!

Prague Castle

Today we ventured over the Vltava River by way of the Charles Bridge to explore the other side of Prague.  Winding our way yet again through cobble stone alley ways we find ourselves admiring buildings such as the Senate, Parliament, Prague Castle and Starbucks. 

Charles Bridge

Yes, Starbucks.  We stopped for morning tea and with eagle eyes noticed that they not only had toilets for paying customers – but they also had a disabled toilet and baby change room.  Never miss an opportunity, I say.  Keeping that in mind for our return trip we headed off to explore the Castle at closer quarters.  Whilst all other tourists could amble up the Old Castle Stairs, we decided to take the back alleyway as it was more pram friendly.  Pram friendly it may have been, but my God, it certainly wasn’t thigh or calf friendly!

St Vitus Cathedral

Old Castle Stairs

Prague Castle is Europe’s largest mediaeval castle complex. St Vitus Cathedral dominates the complex of eclectic buildings.  A fortification has sat upon this land overlooking all that is Prague since the 9^th Century. Today it is the seat of the Czech President.

As promised, on our way back we stopped in at Starbucks again to check out their facilities.  Due to the fact that the baby change was co-located with the disabled toilet, it was of course locked.  After Daddy lined up for several minutes to get the key, he was finally told that there was no key as someone had stolen it!  You have to be kidding me!  It just seems to get more and more ridiculous.

Prague apparently is notorious for pick pockets and petty thieves.  There are written and audio warnings everywhere you go.  Whilst you must be vigilant at all times, I don't think it detracts from the whole experience.

Unless of course you are disabled and you need to go to the toilet!

Traditional street sign

Staré Město - the Old Town

Prague...what an incredibly beautiful city!  Everything that people say about this place is absolutely true. Staying in the Old Town, we were treated to a visual feast as soon as we stepped out of the Hotel.  All around we are surrounded by the most beautiful buildings, cobble stone alley ways, baroque and gothic architecture.

Today we decided to just follow our noses and see what we come across in our amblings!  And what an amazing experience lay before us.

Astronomical clock

Charles Bridge, Old Town Square, the Jewish Quarter, the Old Town Hall’s astronomical clock, the twin spires of Our Lady Before Tyn , Rudolfinum, Prague’s premier concert hall, celebrating all that is the eminent Czech composer, Antonin Dvorak.  Around every corner we came across another breathtaking sight.

Our Lady Before Tyn

Prague is small enough to explore by foot and is clearly the best way.  Alleyways are narrow and cobble stoned, turns are tight. Not that this stops the locals, navigating their way in cars and trucks.

Charles Bridge

Twisting and turning, we stumble across markets, outdoor ham smokers, marionettes, tributes to Mozart’s Don Giovanni, (which premiered here in 1787) and Jan Hus, the massive St Nicholas cathedral and the famous St Hastala church, directly opposite our hotel.

Getting lost in Prague is almost a rite of passage.  On every street corner you will find people consulting maps...the labyrinthine streets of the Old Town almost beckon you to challenge them...but be assured, you will lose, but what a wonderful way to go!

Hotel Maximilian

Our hotel in Prague is just divine.  Set in the heart of the Old Town and designed by noted Czech architect Eva Jiricna, it exudes class, beauty and style...right up our alley!

Our room comfortably houses a small two seater couch and seat, a Nespresso machine, a desk, port-a-cot and the most magnificent king size bed!  But best of all was to come.  For those guests who are missing their pets, or are just in need of some company, you can request your very own gold fish.  Initially dubbed Harry, he soon assumed a more appropriate moniker, Max.  Despite all of the short one’s adorations, he still survives...just!

The hotel’s breakfast bar, library, business centre, honesty bar (yes, you can help yourself to a drink!), sitting room, Zen Asian wellness centre and reception areas are beautifully appointed.  With free high speed  wi-fi throughout the hotel, there is not much else a guest could ask for!

Daddy thought he would avail himself of the wellness centre, and shouted himself a 30 minute foot massage.  On his return, he was convinced he was walking on air.  The short one and I are still battling the cobble stones though!



Hotel Maximilian, Prague



Welcome to Praha - beware of taxi drivers!

Before leaving our own fair shores, we bought a guide book for each of the cities we were to visit.  During our train ride to Prague, I took the opportunity to read up on what Prague had to offer.  Our plan was to catch a taxi from the station to our hotel so I took particular note of any comments pertaining to cabs.  Apparently Prague is notorious for taxi scams and cons.  The book warned the reader to NEVER get into a cab that is unmarked - to always take one that has a yellow sign on its roof declaring taxi and with advertised rates on the door.  It also said to never go with a fixed price, to always insist on a fare meter.

Someone must have been looking down on us - because this advice was invaluable.  As it turned out, a very elderly Czech gentleman took us in hand on the platform and guided us to the lift to get down to the exit.  He then saw us again wandering around aimlessly and asked how we were getting to our hotel.  He then showed us the way out towards the taxis - all the while warning Daddy about the taxi drivers.  He escorted us out to the many waiting cabs and spoke vehemently in Czech to those drivers assembled, warning them off.

The first driver walked us to his car whereupon he starts to brandish this laminated card with prices to various places.  To the city centre (Old Town) he quoted us 980 Czech crowns.  This equates to about $60 AUD for a 5 minute trip. For someone who didn't speak English, he very quickly ascertained what I meant when I said, 'No way, I want a taxi with a meter.'

'OK, 900 then.'  Backwards and forwards we went, with me not backing down.  Finally at 450 (his best offer, apparently) he relented and found us someone with a meter.  I was hoping I hadn't made things worse by standing firm, as to me they all looked as dodgy as each other!

We were then ushered to another cab driver who assures me he has a meter.  We get in and I insist on seeing it.  'Here, meter, here, meter,' the driver assures me vaguely pointing at the dash.  Somehow I am not convinced.  'Show me the meter.  I want to see the meter now!' Reluctantly he pulls out a meter to show me.  But just as quickly, it is put back again.  I watch him in the rear vision mirror and it appears that he is nervously glancing at me.  I watch his every move, only to see him suspiciously and sneakily pressing a button in the vicinity of the meter.  Time will tell what he charges us, but he will be in for one hell of a fight if he tries it on as well!  I think he must have decided it wasn't worth taking me on in the end as he ended up charging us even less again.  We have since seen cab ranks that are government endorsed, guaranteeing a fair price.  Pity they didn’t have one of those at the station!

We didn't bother tipping him!

Platform 9 3/4

Our time had come to leave Munich and make our way to Prague. With a cab booked to take us to Hauptbahnhof, Munich's Central Station, we made our way to the 9am train to Prague.

Whilst waiting on platform 20, a German Frau engaged us in conversation. Fortunately for us, her English was quite good, as she shared with us a fairly important tip!  When catching the train, read the sign above the door to the carriage to ensure it is going to your chosen destination. Apparently, not all of the train will be going to Prague.

Evidently, German carriages have Hogwart's moments and vanish into some unknown realm. Come to think about it, she did look a bit like Hagrid!

Our trip to Prague was 5 hours long. We were greatly relieved to discover that we were in fact in the right carriage. We were delighted to have our 1st class cabin all to ourselves. Our little space had 5 seats and a door. This was great as we were able to close off our area and let the short one have a bit of space. It also meant that all of our luggage was with us with plenty of room. One of the benefits, no doubt, of travelling off season.

The time just flew by, and before we knew it we were pulling into Prague's Central Station, Hlavni Nadrazi. I will never forget seeing my first glimpse of this world famous city, one that I have always wanted to visit. Emblazoned all over the building surrounding the approach to the station was the most enormous photo of Harry Potter I have ever seen.

Now, come on!  That is just a little bit spooky!